So after helping Ian and Jacqui with their photoshop skills in Northampton, it was time to head back to London and up to Bradford, Yorkshire on the overnight coach and see what could be sold out of my storage container there, to try and raise enough money for a trip out to Indonesia to help the manta ray and shark researchers there to shed some light on the number of sharks and rays that are being fished off the island of Lombok. I saw a Facebook thread the week before from Shark Savers and Aquatic Alliance which really shocked me to see what was going on in such a beautiful part of the world and just instinctively knew that I had to help somehow. My boyfriend is from Indonesia and not working at the moment, I felt that it was ideal to get him from Manado to this area so that he could talk to the locals and get a real feel to see what was going on.
I tried to work out an itinerary to see how I could get there to make a mini-documentary on this, but however hard I tried there were so many options it was impossible to do this alone. I emailed a couple of companies based in Bali directly who I'd had contact with over the years, but for whatever reason, none of them wanted to help me make the documentary to help raise awareness of this issue.
It was a last minute call on Monday afternoon at 3.30 pm that I will never forget to Sarah at Dive Worldwide to see if there was any way that she knew where I needed to go to get to the market. Unbelievably, and I will never ever forget this moment either in my whole 15 years of travelling the world's oceans, and email came back to me the next morning to say that an itinerary was all sorted for me by Bali Diving Academy and that I was travelling as their guest. I was so unbelievably touched that the owners, Sveva and Michael, wanted to help me and Michel so much and the speed of their help was truly touching.
So after travelling back on Wednesday, it was time to head to the airport on Thursday morning and a special thanks goes to Jo and Graeme from Ocean View Diving Services in Lancing, Sussex who went out of their way to give me a lift to the train station. Just a shame that in the hurry of packing all my camera equipment that I couldn't text them to say thank you though! And of course they couldn't phone me to tell me to go back and pick it up either!
Two days of flying through Hong Kong and as soon as I arrived in Denpasar, it was time to catch another flight to Lombok. Sveva was waiting for me there with the largest welcome smile I've ever experienced in my whole life. Two hours later and we had arrived at our little cottage where we were staying. Two hours of sleep and it was time to get up at 4 am ready to go to the fish market in nearby Tanjung Luar.
I had never been so scared in my life, but knew that it was something that I had to do. Sadly, as soon as we turned up at 6 am whilst it was still dark, a dead manta ray was already there, caught as by-catch from the squid fishermen. We stayed there for 5 hours, Amir our taxi-driver went to interview the squid fishermen and Michel stayed with me to interview the guy who is responsible for catching sharks. He told me that a large shark would be coming in later, but nothing could have prepared me for what I saw that morning.
This morning, or this story isn't about just sharks and mantas, it was also about other beautiful ocean animals. I found a gorgeous eagle ray still alive in the market with locals walking over it. I tried to buy it and took it back to the sea to try and set it free, but sadly it's tail was broken and therefore it couldn't get enough strength to swim back out to sea. Much as I prayed for a solution, there was no other way but to take it back to the market to meet it's fate. As soon as it landed back on the cold concrete floor that was now it's destiny, it let out a huge sigh and for as long as I will live, I will never, ever forget it's face or that sound. I even wanted to build it a little home so that at least it could still live in the ocean or at least go to "Eagle Ray Heaven" in its rightful home, the sea, instead of being sliced to pieces by a knife whilst still alive. Every day I think of that beautiful creature and has instilled and reinforced the very reason why I started following my passion for whales, dolphins and sharks back in 1997.
All around me were crates and buckets of fish. We found endless buckets of squid, more buckets of shrimps, triggerfish, blue spotted rays on kebab sticks as well as huge tuna heads and even a sailfish and a blue marlin. There were knives and blood absolutely everywhere and still that beautiful manta lay on the floor waiting for someone to come along and buy it. It didn't take long and whilst I was on the other side of the market trying to save the eagle ray, there was someone chopping it up and taking away the parts that they needed leaving behind just the insides of the manta with a pool of blood.
And then arrived one shark and then another one on canes, both measuring between 2.5 to 3 metres. They needed 4 men to carry them and were quickly dropped onto the tiles whilst men circled around measuring their fins. An auction ensued and both of them were sold for 4 million rupiah, about £280 pounds for both of them. As soon as one of them arrived I said to Michel that one was pregnant, and sadly I was right, 13 little baby sharks were all lined up in front of me with nothing more than the mother's eye remaining that was recognisable as to the creature that she used to be.
We learnt that the shark fins are dried just a few metres away at a local house and that all the fins as well as the gill rakers go to Surabaya in Indonesia before going to Hong Kong and Singapore directly. We also found out that the local fisherman earn about £100 per month for being out at sea practically every day and that they would gladly welcome a change. The saddest part about this trip was that there was women and children in amongst all the blood and gore which ensued from chopping the fish, sharks and rays, such a shame when the little village itself was so pretty.
Michel is out there for another 2 weeks collecting daily data as to what kind of sharks are being captured and numbers as well as the rays. I've left him my camera so that he can hopefully ID them as well and send the information over to Shark Savers as well as Aquatic Alliance and The Manta Trust. I've also been in touch with Project Aware who have been really helpful and sincerely hope that this data will be able to help them change this area in some way.
Did I learn something from this trip? Yes, I learnt that the local people are doing what they need to do to make a living and feed their families and that for me, I fell in love with the ocean even more deeply than when I first saw my programme on whale sharks back in 1994 in St James Hospital in Leeds ....
A really special thank you goes to Bali Diving Academy for hosting me during the craziest 5 days of my life last week. Without their passion and dedication, this project to help our oceans would never have got off the ground and am hoping and praying that it will not be in vain.
I'll keep you posted ....